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HABA Mentor Notes

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May 15, 2004

Damascus Billet Demo
with Mitch Wilkins


P5010002b.jpg Conroe knife maker and jeweler Mitch Wilkins will demo how he makes damascus billets for his knives at Robert Killbuck's shop in Magnolia on Saturday May 15. Robert has a newly painted 50 Lb power hammer that he has been renovating and is eager to put it to work. He invited his friend Mitch Wilkins to show us how to do this. Mitch will also work on the anvil and treadle hammer.

We will have special billet kits for sale which include a combination of 1084 and 15N20 steel, a rebar handle, and a bag of flux material.

While the billet is heating in the forge, Mitch will demo various knife forging and shaping techniques.

When the billet is finished Mitch will continue with completing the knife.

Bring your coal or gas forge and anvil and you can work on your billet while Mitch can help out. He has a hand-held thermocouple unit to check the forge temperature. This is a HABA meeting you do not want to miss!

Please visit our web site for more details at Making Damascus Billets.

P5010015b.jpg Notes from Mitch Wilkins on How to Make Damascus Billets

I've been asked by several of you for some sort of work sheet for the pattern welded steel demo and rightfully so... First I'll tell you that you mustn't take what I say for Gospel.

"DAMASCUS".... or Pattern Welded Steel

First of all pattern welded steel isn't magic, it is however a process involving several critical steps which must be accomplished in proper order so as to achieve the desired results.

(1) Selection of steel.

Since in my case, I'm making a tool (a knife...) I'm first of all concerned that it will do it's task. So without question, it must be high carbon (thus, hardenable) steel that I'm to use. That said, there are many many carbon steels to choose from so what are we to use? Well, for a first effort, and in pursuit of some sort of success, we will use "contrasting steels". That means steels which have similar carbon contents for the most part but some chemically different contents so as to look different when "etched" with acid. So I've selected 1084 and 15N20 for our use here. The "1084" in steel talk means a "10" series steel with ".80" percent of carbon. And yes that's 80 hundredths of a percent not "8" percent!! Steels with even a whole 1% of carbon are rare, it just doesn't take all that much to do the job.

The 15N20 is a specialty steel used primarily in BIG band saw and circular saw blade applications and is HIGH IN NICKEL CONTENT. Acid attacks nickel much more slowly that ferrite so a nice pattern is almost always assured. You see, some of the earliest examples of "Damascus" steel started out looking like anything else. It took years of use, stains, rust and it's subsequent removal, time and time again over many years, to have a design emerge. When I finish a blade, and take it down to 320 grit paper or even finer, it looks like any other piece of knife steel you've ever seen; smooth, shinny, and even colored. It must be dipped in an etchant to have the pattern emerge. Depending on the steels used and the etchant, you might leave it submerged 20 minutes or maybe only 5!

(2) A proper weld.

This is hard to convey. If you've ever heat welded mild steel or wrought iron, try and erase that from you memory: those are forgiving, carbon steel is not. Remember we're making a knife: a tool. This tool must posses integrity for it's intended use so in the case of carbon steel.... we cannot afford to burn or compromise the steel in any way! That's a mouthful but necessary: temperature is critical. Forging temp for carbon steels is generally 1500 to 1800 oF but to weld, you've got to come up with at least 2400 oF. When I first started welding up billets, I would get lots of "cold shuts". That's where you only get a partial weld and latter, when you least expect it, a place shows up that didn't take... oh what misery. That is inexcusable in good bladesmithing so let me tell you the single most common mistake in welding up a pretty good chunk of steel: it is trying to weld to "early"!!!

When you have a forge up, running, and "at temp" (i.e. 2400 oF) and you throw a big piece of steel in side, you IMMEDEANTLY drop the temp several hundred degrees. That steel acts as a heat sink and a good one at that. Now, additionally, once the forge has recovered from the shock and begins to ascend on temp again, you start to watch your billet and when it is the same color of the forge interior you weld right?? No; a BIG NO. Steel is a very poor conductor of heat so in reality, the center of that billet is still cool and so, will simply not weld properly. It is behaving much like an apple pie does in the oven; brown and crispy on the outside but a toothpick plunged into the center reveals it is still "un-cooked" there. You have to let the billet "soak" and for a good 15 minutes to have good results. I know several bladesmiths that soak for 20 minutes before attempting a weld and truthfully, that first weld is the most critical for without it, all subsequent welds are compromised as well.

Some people can weld a whole billet in one heat. Well, that's nice. Not everyone can do so, I more often than not have to do the first weld in "halves". Better safe than sorry I say. Once I've accomplished this first weld, I will many times let it cool off and grind into the sides a bit to see how well it has taken. If I don't like what I see in one place or another, I can reheat and weld again in a particular place that looks "iffy". All this accomplished ("sigh...") we can move to folding.

(3) Fold and weld.

It's just like it sounds. Note that of course when you hear people expostulate of how many "folds" their "Damast" (as it's called in Germany) has, that the numbers increase exponentially. We will start off with a stack of 5 pieces of steel for our billet. One fold (the first fold after the initial weld) will give us 10 layers, a second fold 20, a third 40, the forth 80, (now for the magic of multiples!!) the fifth 160 and the sixth 320 layers! one more fold and you've 640!! and by just 8 folds you have!!!.... uh... a homogenous steel that appears to have no pattern at all. That's right, you can actually blend two steels until it's almost unrecognizable. when etched. That's not our aim of course. There is a trick (a critical step...) to folding: you always want to fold the "bottom" of the billet, forward toward the top. This I will show you at the demo and there are a few tips to remember in order to do this...

(4) Form the final stock.

Oh... did I forget to mention that while doing all the above that you have to keep in mind what the heck your going to make out of this stuff??? ,well, you do. For the purpose of the demo, we will be making a knife but you may wish for something different. The aim is to end up with a piece of "stock" in the shape you would normally use for that same purpose in say, mild steel or in our case here, flat stock with which to make a blade. There's many different ways to come up with great patterns in pattern welded steel and we will discuss these at the hammerin. At this point we "should" be able to treat this piece of stock as we would any other as far as forging, hardening, and tempering. I will assume you all know something of these processes and if you don't or need help there, we ("I") will gladly go over the basics with you at the demo.


I could say "well, that's about it for pattern welded steel" but that would be the proverbial band-aid for the machine gun victim. There is just no end to discussing this form of steel "blending"!! The possibilities are substantial and varied to say the least. The above is just a bare bones outline for what we will be doing so be prepared with questions and I'll try and answer. Remember, I'm not afraid to say "I don't know"!!! In the event I've left something important out here, (like the salt from bread dough!!) please email me and say so! I am happily a flawed person in a flawed world, help me out a little here won't ya??

With compliments and regards,
Mitch Wilkins

mitchwilkins@flex.net


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Here are some photos taken at demo rehearsal May 01, 2004. Click on image to enlarge.

P5010012b.jpg P5010040b.jpg P5010014b.jpg
P5010020b.jpg P5010024b.jpg P5010027b.jpg


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More info can be found at these web sites :



Want to learn more about old and modern damascus? Try these sites :

Ancient Damascus
Steel Blades


Pattern Welding
Bladesmithing in Iron Age Europe


Wootz Steel (True Damascus)

Make Damascus Steel

Don Fogg Damascus

Jim Hrisoulas Pattern-Welded
and Cable Blades


Lively Knives

Cashen Blades

Hossom Knives

Wootz

Furrer Wootz

Crucible Damascus Steel


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